When we mentioned "Bali" as the destination for honeymoon, many people around us are skeptical towards this small island. The comments like "Susah nak makanler" (Hard to find good and halal food...Yes, Muslim need to eat Halal food wherever we are...) or "Buat apa kau pegi sane? Itu bukan tempat kite" (Why do you go there? It's not our kind of place) are common to be heard before our journey. I know this will sound a little arrogant but I have been living in Japan for the past 4 years, and yet I am still the man I was before, a Muslim, a Malaysian and a Malay. The fact that I am living in a totally different place and atmosphere does not change the faith inside me. Please remember the old Malay proverb of "Sedangkan ikan dalam lautan pun isinya tak masin" (Even fishes who lives inside the sea are not salty). Therefore, visiting Bali, as one among another 17,000 islands that forms the Indonesian archipelago is not a problem for me and what I believed in, and this should not be a problem to anyone.
But Bali is not "just another tropical island". It has a long history tracing back to the 15th and 16th century when Islam was embraced by the ancient Malay Sultanate and also the nearby Sumatra and Java through trade and marriage proposal from Arab traders. The remnants of Hinduism followers in the Majapahit Empire which were mostly aristocrats, musicians, artists and craftsman fled to this small island to avoid conversion, making this island what it is today, a veritable place for old cultures, arts and crafts.
Balinese Hinduism has many distinctive traditions, vastly different than those practiced in India. When I opened the door of my pool villa in Seminyak, ready to discover the wonders of this beautiful island then stop. Lying at my feet is an "offering" laid on the ground, a small tiny palm leaf tray with flowers and rice. As much as Balinese are devoted Hindu followers, they also believe in spirits; good and bad. Walking around Bali, you constantly have to hop around escaping those offerings, normally being laid on the floor in front of most shops and houses with some containing things as unique as "rokok kretek" (Indonesian star anise-based cigarette) and "Kopiko" (Famous coffee-based sweets).
With a mindset that Balinese practices kind of a different Hinduism than the one we have in Malaysia due to its ancient mystical and spiritual approach, I am still reeling from the intricacies of this religion. But as I tour the island, I see that the religion is vibrant, pretty much embedded as a lifestyle of a Balinese rather than a doctrine of teachings. A temple is a place where young girls learn the delicate movements of Balinese dances, small boys join the "gamelan", an ensemble orchestra and housewives proudly place huge offerings on their head.
Religion is not just confined in temple complexes. Never once did I heard any arguments or quarrel. Balinese is also known for their giant warm smile, displaying happy life and it could be seen even from the design of their home, laid-back and more to a resort-style resting nest.
The lesson learnt was that when you have any doubt about something, you might as well go and check it by yourself. The truth is what you see although interpretations could be multiple from others. Bye-bye Bali. Let Kuta, Nusa Dua, Jinbaran and Sanur continue leading its hectic wild nightlife beach parties but the serenity of Tegalalang, Tanah Lot and Ubud, should remain as calm as it is.
Do good, spread the love...
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